mustang
1966 Mustang

This site is a record of the changes that we made to our 1966 Mustang Convertible. Some of it is related to general automotive repair and some is related to car restoration.

Sometimes we may pose questions if we are stuck, and anyone may post a question or write to us if you need help with your project.


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Installing a New Edelbrock 1406 Carburetor

Wed Apr 13, 2016 1:34 am
Comments: 4 Views: 9693
Installing a new carburetor is not a very difficult project. You don't need many tools and aside from some adjustments it does not take very long. The Edelbrock carburetor we bought comes pretty much ready to go.
 
A few things you may want to consider ahead of time may be the fuel lines and pcv lines. If you are installing a new type or brand of carburetor the location of the lines may be different. So it is always a good idea to get a few feet of 3/8 or 5/16 inch fuel lines just incase. Having a new fuel filter is also something you may want to pick up. The other thing to consider is that if you need different length lines coming off the fuel pump then you do not want them coming in contact with any heat sources (valve covers, headers...etc), so grab some plastic ties if you need to keep the fuel lines out of the way.
 
(click to enlarge image)

holley carburetor

Removing the old carburetor is pretty simple, there should not be many things to disconnect. Typically you have the vacuum advance, fuel line, pcv line and the hot lead to the electric choke (if present).

Once you have removed the lines simply loosen the bolts (½ inch in this case) and remove the old carburetor. Be careful not to get any debris into the intake.

If the old gasket is stuck to the base then plug up the intake with some clean shop rags and gently scrap the gasket off with a screwdriver and clean it up.

Now you just put the new gasket on and mount the new carburetor. Reconnect the lines and you should be ready to try it out.

(click to enlarge image)

edelbrock 1406 carburetor

TroubleShooting

We did have a few problems that we eventually tracked down. The car started right up but raced (idled) very high. After adjusting the idle screw and idle mixture screws there was no improvement. We figured there must be a vacuum leak so while it was running we sprayed some starting fluid near the carburetor to see if there was any higher idle spots. There were none so we checked for leaks in the other lines. Nothing. Eventually we pulled off the power to the electric choke, started it, there was no racing, then we reconnected the line and started it. The choke must have reset because the idle was much lower and there were no problems after that.



Replacing a Headlight Switch

Wed Apr 13, 2016 1:11 am
Comments: 1 Views: 822

Replacing a headlight switch is a perfect example of an easy fix once you:

  1. identify that it is a problem
  2. you know how to change it
headlight switchOtherwise it can be annoying.

Our switch was probably the original from 1966. There are a couple of indications that your switch is bad.

  • the headlights don't work
  • the dash lights don't work
  • you hear buzzing when you change the dash light intensity
  • it may interfere with the turn signals

There are probably other indications, but we have not encountered them.

Note: The photo shows what the old switch looked like.

Removing the old switch

The first thing to do is disconnect the battery. Don't get shocked.

Then remove the dash instrument panel. There are a lot of wires but you do not need to remove them. The only connection that needs to be removed is the speedometer cable. It should unscrew easily by hand. Then just lay the panel on the steering column.

The next step is to remove the cable to the old switch. As you can see from the photo above there are a couple wires going to it. This is a one-piece plastic connector. Just remove it as one piece.

switch

This is a photo of the new switch. Notice the button on the side. This button releases the light pull-out stick. 

To remove the pull-out stick for the lights push the button while gently pulling the stick out. This exposes the large screw that connects to the switch.

Using a very large regular or philips screw drive unscrew the old switch.

Just reverse the process to install the new switch.



Convertible Bow Adjustments & Alignment

Mon Jan 11, 2016 8:42 am
Comments: 1 Views: 1231

When you have installed your front tacking strip and rear bow tack strip you then need to properly align the bows from each other. In order to install the pads correctly and to have the actual top meet the middle two bows, each of the bows needs to be the correct distance away from the front bow.

measuring convertible top bow distances

This is not an easy thing to do and we have heard many recommendations on using a wooden jig. Since we do not have access to much in the way of tools, because we are doing this in a parking lot, with no saws we set up a series of clamps, ropes and bungee cords to hold everything in place.

The reason this step is so important is that the rear bow needs to come up to the proper height to connect to the rear curtain (back window). If you make a mistake on this step you might have to do it again and remove the pads, rear curtain...so on.

No. 1 bow to No. 2 bow: 16 1/2 inches
No. 2 bow to No. 3 bow: 16 3/4 inches
No. 3 bow to No. 4 bow: 15 1/2 inches
No. 4 bow to stainless molding: 20 1/2 inches
No. 4 bow to drain trough: 22 1/2 inches

These measurements are from the trailing edge of the #1 bow to the leading edge of #2 bow, and so on for the other bows.

Take your time when working on this step since you do not want to go back and do it again.

We got some needed advice and the bow distance measurements from:

Mustang Monthly



Front Window Repair - Scissor Assembly Door Window Regulator

Sun Jun 16, 2013 7:39 pm
Comments: 1 Views: 3775

We recently repaired the driver side window on our 1966 Mustang, at first it seemed that the plastic window bushing was broken, or it had come off the track. It turned out that the problem was that on the window regulator (part number 23234) the triangle part broke off from the scissor arms. Apparently this is not a typical window problem but we were able to get ourselves a used window scissor regulator for $20, along with three new window bushings. A new window regulator goes for about $30 on the web.

Installation is really pretty easy, as long as you do not bolt up the triangle part (three ½ inch bolts) before you place the three tracks in place with the bushings on them.

Take off the interior door cover. Position the part inside the door and orient it properly. Place each bushing arm in the proper track and then move the triangle to the correct position and bolt it up.

It is also easier to have someone hold the window while you are doing this. Or you can jam the window with a screw driver wrapped with a cloth.

(click to enlarge)

SCISSOR ASSY DOOR WINDOW REGULATOR
(click to enlarge)
1966 Mustang Door Diagram


Attaching the New Rear Curtain - Back Window

Mon May 27, 2013 12:50 am
Comments: 1 Views: 1170

After the top pads have been stapled you are now ready for the back window to be attached to the rear tack to body strip.

 

We first measured and centered how the plastic part of the window would be stapled to the tack strip. We put a little contact cement on the tack strip and placed a few staples in the plastic. Then we brought the strip with the window to the back of the car to measure if we were too high or low on the rear bow.

This step can take a while, but we found that the window should be about 2 - 3 inches below the strip. Again it matters how you measured the rear bow or you will be off.

 




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